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Cultural Appropriation 101

Published: Thursday, November 1, 2012

Updated: Thursday, November 1, 2012 23:11

 

With Halloween just behind us, it seems appropriate to turn to the much debated subject of cultural appropriation. Let’s start off with a pretty simple definition: Cultural appropriation is the use of an aspect of a culture – religious/political holidays, clothing, jewelry, music, language, etc. – by a non-member of that culture who ignores its cultural, political and historical significance. The act of cultural appropriation takes power and privilege: the power to take the easy and beautiful aspects of a marginalized culture and use them, generally without being questioned, and the privilege to ignore or give back everything politically or religiously significant, meaningful or historically difficult associated with that marginalized culture. 

Now, let’s look at some examples. That trendy, “tribal” print from American Outfitters? Yes. Bindis worn as a fashion statement? Yes. The name of the Redskin’s Football Team? Yes. Indian Princess costumes? Geisha costumes? Blackface makeup? Sugar skull makeup and paraphernalia? Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes.

Everyone can culturally appropriate. Let me repeat. Everyone can culturally appropriate. Everyone has a culture of which they are not members and because of that, they have that power and privilege to pick and choose. 

So what’s the big deal about cultural appropriation anyway? As long as you’re not actively inflicting violence on a minority group, it’s okay, right? As long as you’re not using racial slurs, all is well, yeah? The answers to those questions are: Everything. No. And no. 

Cultural appropriation turns the realities of different groups of people into entertainment or into fashion statements. It groups widely diverse communities into one stereotyped image. It takes away the sacredness of a tradition and turns it into the next fad. It tells those cultures and those people that their way of worship, their way of dressing, their music, their language are acceptable as long as they’re fun or pretty. That way, no one has to think about what those things mean, and what injustices and violent acts have been done to people simply for being who they are. Cultural appropriation continues to normalize this idea that one image or one person can represent and homogenize an entire group. 

There’s a difference between cultural appropriation and cultural appreciation. Cultural appropriation is taking aspects of another culture and using them without permission or understanding. Cultural appreciation, on the other hand, involves learning about another culture and the significance it places in certain objects. Cultural appreciation is being invited into a culture’s practices to observe, participate and learn. However, just because you’ve been invited to a Native American tribe’s open powpow at some point does not make it okay to wear moccasins made by non-Native Americans or wear a war bonnet you have not earned. And taking photos or wearing elements of a culture you don’t belong to because “you like how it looks” or “it’s fashionable now” isn’t cultural appreciation, it’s appropriation.   

I want to leave you with words of wisdom Professor Kevin Quashie once said: “There are three things we must keep in mind simultaneously: 1. Culture belongs to no one. 2. Culture belongs to everyone. 3. If culture can belong to someone, it belongs to those who have significant experiences with it.”

I urge you to keep that idea in mind when you do anything from picking out a new item of clothing to deciding what to be next Halloween. If before you put something on you wonder if it might be problematic, racist or appropriative – it probably is. 

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13 comments

Anonymous
Thu Jan 17 2013 13:55
This is a truly idiotic, ridiculous, and ignorant, (emphasis on the ''rant'') opinion piece. The article expresses anti-white, anti-profit, and anti-fashion opinions. Interesting and heartening that not one commenter agrees with these puerile ideas. Yeah, lay off Halloween- a day where anything goes, costume-wise. Sounds like Micah needs a fashion-makeover big time!
Anonymous
Wed Dec 26 2012 04:12
And while I do understand the subject of cultural appropriation to an extent, taking it to this extreme level just makes it absurd. Because then it makes everything we do, purchase or decorate our homes or ourselves as cultural appropriation. I think it needs a better redefined definition and not something as extreme as this!
Anonymous
Wed Dec 26 2012 04:10
This whole subject is absurd, and only seems to get stronger as halloween approaches or goes by. It is human nature to copy one another, why is everyone getting so sensitive because we dress a certain way? Does't the world realize that we are socially evolving to the point of merging our cultures, and being individuals, not just belonging to one culture in particular, but a bigger picture? Oh please. If you want people to stay in certain groups with certain styles/clothes/culture it's not going to happen, it's only natural for the world to evolve as a whole and for everyone to pick something that suits them better than their own culture. Just because you were born and raised under a certain margin doesn't mean you HAVE to follow it. Otherwise we wouldn't evolve socially. Geez.
Anonymous
Mon Dec 10 2012 13:15
This had some interesting points, and I was going along with consideration until I got to, "wait, now I can't wear moccasins? How is that remotely equivalent to dressing up as a geisha?"

There is certainly such a thing as disrespectful cultural appopriation. But there is also such a thing as encountering another culture and learning things that you think are a good idea. Moccasins are comfortable. When cultures encounter each other, they learn things.

The problem occurs when one culture dominates and nearly obliterates the other through non-cultural means (like warfare and occupation). Then the defeated people don't get to thrive and the cultural influence becomes imbalanced and weird. The conquered say, "wait, that is ours and it is important and sacred" but they can be ignored because the conquerers are louder and more plentiful. The conquered cannot even just ignore them and continue on with the force of their own culture sustaining itself, because they have no force anymore. The problem is not in the borrowing, it's in the conquering. Everybody borrows. And fashion borrows more freely than most other things, going both ways.

Fashion appropriating the sacred is controversial and happens even within a single culture. The problem is when one party can't just carry on ignoring the idiocy of others because the others are overtaking them. But that doesn't make fashion itself wrong. I think beneath your arguement is an assumption that fashion is wrong; that having fads is destructive and meaningless and that fashion--our own fashion, at least-- is nothing.

And lay off halloween--many, many cultures have a night where the rules are broken and people dress as things they normally can't.

Anonymous
Fri Nov 16 2012 13:18
So according to Micah's bizarre ''rules'' for white people only, as long as you aren't white you can ''appropriate a culture'' (the entire culture!) and dress as a Lapplander, wear lederhosen, or wooden clogs, dye your black hair blonde and wear whiteface. And this is- according to genius Micah- because white people have a ''demonic racist heritage'' and have no culture of their own- LOL! Actually, non-whites copy/imitate/appropriate white/European cultural dress and customs not just in primarily white/Euro nations, but in Africa and Asia. Getting married in western garb- white gown and tuxedo or tails is commonplace in every Asian and African nation by non-whites who are not Christians.
''Moccasin'' comes from ''maskisina'' - Cree for ''footwear'' including sandals and boots. I am 1/4 Cree and it 's perfectly acceptable to wear whatever you like on your feet including moccasins produced anywhere by anyone. The warbonnet might get a laugh or eyeroll if worn by a visitor to a powwow but that's it. Looks like if white folks followed Micah's hilarious rules they would be running around naked most of the time! Hey Micah- you have a lot of dopey rules for white people - do you have any equally ridiculous rules for yourself? We'd certainly like to hear about them!
Anonymous
Thu Nov 15 2012 16:11
Indigenous cultures have borrowed/appropriated, do borrow/appropriate and will borrow/appropriate from other cultures/tribes/ethnic groups and cultures. Indigenous people all over the world have changing styles of jewelry, hair, clothing, and even religious practices just like us.Take a look at really old National Geographic mags with pics of indigenous people and see what they were wearing and doing for their ceremonies even 10 years later. Any anthropologist knows this. I'm surprised that such a silly and ignorant article would be in the Smithsophian. No culture is set in cement and all cultures have contacts with other cultures, trading, copying, imitating, ''stealing'' and influencing each other, both for enjoyment and sometimes even for-Gasp!- profit. There is nothing wrong with this. There are many white ethnic groups that have their own traditions and in many European countries these traditions -folklore, songs, celebrations, are formally taught in the schools. If a tradition ''exclusively'' belongs to a particular culture , it simply means that no other culture finds it appealing enough to imitate it.
Whites have no more of a ''demonic racist heritage '' than any other racial group. On every continent strong clans, tribes, etc. of every race conquered/enslaved/decimated other weaker groups. Whites ended feudalism long before other places/peoples and this gave them an edge on dominance.
Wear what you like, dress up for Halloween in whatever appeals to you, put your sticky earrings wherever you want, have the wedding of your dreams- whatever the cultural sources are. We will always have the hyper-sensitive and easily offended among us, seeing evil all around them, calling others names, and generally having a lousy time wherever they are. That's their problem, let's not make it ours.
Anonymous
Thu Nov 15 2012 14:59
So if I'm white I'm pretty much left without options for what I want to wear. Well then.
Anonymous
Thu Nov 15 2012 14:13
"Demonic racist heritage?" Was it really necessary to use a religious reference?
Also, I fail to see why how it's more acceptable to lump all "white" culture together than to lump, for instance all "black" culture - neither one is that simple. Your assertion is really Amerocentric, completely ignoring the fact that there's diversity within "white" culture as well and that, yes, light-skinned people actually do have our own traditions. Eastern Europe, where I live, is a good example: A Russian, a Ukrainian and a Bulgarian all have fair skin, but all differ very strongly from one another in terms of cultural heritage and expression. Also, we have lived in this part of the world since even before Kievan Rus', so maybe next time you talk about how white people only exploit and steal their cultures, you could remember that that isn't the always the case outside of the U.S., and that light-skinned people from outside this country are part of your "white" culture too.
Anonymous
Thu Nov 15 2012 12:59
By the way, I should add that white racism does not exist and in itself is a form of racism designed to excuse whites from their demonic racist heritage. We are so privileged that as a whole we have no culture save for exploitation and appropriation. No one can really say what "white" culture is, because we steal from everyone else.
Anonymous
Thu Nov 15 2012 12:55
Drawing inspiration is a form of appreciation - copying a culture in order to profit off of it is not. I thought the difference was clear. You can appreciate a culture and perhaps partake in its traditions with mutual respect and understanding. You should not, as a white person, appropriate a culture without that mutual respect and understanding to make money or be "in style." dressing up as a person of indigenous heritage for Halloween should represent an example of the latter. You do not respect a culture's heritage by perpetuating gross stereotypes. It's a very clear distinction. Eating pizza by a "non-Italian" is not in the same league as wearing an indigenous headress without even knowing the significance and story behind it.
Anonymous
Tue Nov 13 2012 00:44
When I consider wearing something that could be considered as exclusively belonging to another culture I just think about how I would explain to my kids why it would be inappropriate. They are pretty young and don't even understand the concept of racism. So if I wear to say to them "No you can't wear this style of clothing because only people from this place/ethnicity/religion/culture can wear it" what kind of message am I sending to them? It sounds extremely racist to me no matter how I put it. First I'm pointing out to them that there are different cultures and views in the world, which is a great thing. Then I'm telling them that there is something wrong with that culture or view because they are allowed to express themselves by wearing a certain piece that could be connected to that culture. I'm not saying that I don't have discussions with my children about different cultures, that would be just as bad. But I would never tell them no they can't.
Because I'm an American, several generations removed from all the other cultures of my ancestries(and I am a Heinz 57 so you can bet there's a lot) do that mean I'm limited to jeans and a t-shirt? Or if I need to be dressier trousers and a blouse? I guess I could borrow from era's like the 50's and 60's I might be able to pull of some of the Civil War era outfits without people yelling "APPROPRIATION!" And since I might be able to get away with some traditional European costumes/patterns if I could spout their significance on demand and come up with convincing ancestry.
When I was a young child I used to have stick on earrings. Some of my favorite places to put them? Corners of eyes and forehead. It wasn't until I was 8 that I learned that there were people in another culture who viewed dots on foreheads as sacred. I stopped my practice because I was afraid people would find it offensive. They would find something I had come up with on my own offensive because another culture already used it in a spiritual way. This fear of offending people makes me hesitant to wear styles and patterns and items I like because I might offend someone. What I should've done is if people came up and told me that my forehead jewel was offensive to Hindus is act like I didn't realize there was a culture that wore forehead dots and ask them to explain everything they can about that culture. And then I would've continued doing what I wanted because I happened to like having that stick on there.
There's very few "American" styles that I actually like. Most I just tolerate because it is available and I won't get a lecture about the historical importance of the printed kitten on the back of the tee. I've been reading a lot on what people think of other people who wear outside culture clothing and what I've read so far has made me feel really slimy. Because everything I read is against cultural appropriation and no matter how I read it I still walk away with the sense that the author is an unintentional racist, which lets face it is one of the worst kinds. Even arguments from people of a different background to me sound unintentionally racist. "You can't do this, it is a part of my religious/racial/cultural heritage. It belongs to me and you do not deserve it." People who think like that don't deserve any of the cultural offerings of Americans/Europeans then, yet they are so willing to appropriate the better parts of our culture.
I think I've made my decision. I will go out wearing what I want because I like the way it works. Screw the overly sensitive. If anyone does want to try to enlighten me to the significance of what I'm wearing and why I can't wear it I will politely listen to them, thank them for the knowledge they just imparted and go about my day wearing what I like because I find it aesthetically pleasing.
Anonymous
Sun Nov 11 2012 21:06
So cultural appropriation is now the11th sin? Ridiculous! I'm a designer and like all designers all over the world, constantly look for ideas and inspiration anywhere I find it. There are so many international cultural elements in clothing, furnishings, architecture,food, music,art and literature. So Micah must object to pizza eaten by non-italians, classical ballet being danced by non-europeans, wearing huaraches by non-Mexicans, the list is endless! Micah- get a life.
Anonymous
Sun Nov 11 2012 16:08
the real question is: how the hell do you go about getting permission from a whole cultural group. do i just go up and ask a random japanese person if i can wear a kimono. do i ask a white person if i can dress as a pilgrim? do i ask one of my fellow african ethnic groups if i can have a wedding in their traditional style rather than in mine. this is where cultural appropriation gets ridiculous because it focuses on the idea that a culture has one single identity and opinion on the matter. yes, everyone can culturally appropriate and everyone will. but at the same time, you cannot excuse the patriots and demonize the redskins, etc.




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